Syria to Lebanon

You know most of the time I share photos of these picture perfect campsites, lovely little grassy knolls with a babbling brook running right beside my tent, like something out of a Patagonia magazine. Well I wanted to point out that it's not always so glorious. Four nights ago it was pouring down rain and I found myself sleeping here.

This is the partially built building I slept in

It protected me extremely well from the downpour outside but the sound of bats and mice menaced me all night.

The next day I visited Krak des Chevaliers, a castle dating back to 1031, expanded by the crusader knights in the 12th century. It provided some 2000 hospitallers (crusaders) shelter from the Islamic armies that besieged the fortress.

The world needs more castles with moats!

These were the archers holes

View of Syrian countryside from the Castle

Later that day I cycled to the Syrian/Lebanon border. When I arrived at the Syria border it was utter chaos; massive ques of trucks, unoccupied cars blocking the gates, tons of people walking across the border carrying gigantic plastic bags (who knows what they were carrying). When I finally got the attention of an immigration officer, he informed me that I had to pay a $10 USD departure tax before I could get stamped out. I've heard of people being charge departure taxes when leaving the airport, but never in passing 11 countries overland have I been charged a departure tax. I started to argue with the officer, thinking he was taking me for a ride, when I realized that ever the local people were paying 10 dollars just to leave the country. It was actually quite the hassle to just get stamped out of Syria.

I cycled right past the Lebanese immigration office first of all, so when I arrived at a gate the officers informed me that I had to get a visa before entering into their country. So I cycled back to the small building that was their immigration office and went to apply for a visa. The immigration officer was as nice as he could be and when he asked how long I wanted to stay in Lebanon, I simply said, 15 days (as that was the cheapest visa available). He flipped through my passport a few times then said, 'I tell you what Mr Hardie, I'll give you 30 days for free'. I shook the man's hand and my departure tax anger quickly disappeared as this immigration officer just saved me about $16 USD.

Money changers at the border

I reached the Mediterranean coast of Lebanon just as the sun was setting.

The next day I reached Beirut, the Paris of the Middle East, an extremely progressive city with no shortage of flashy cars, sexy appeal, or expensive cafes. This is also the first time I've seen some restaurants in over 10 months (TGIF, Applebees, Hardees, Krispy Kreme).

Krispy Kreme in English and Arabic

Just as I arrived in Beirut proper, I pulled out a map and tried to get my bearings straight. Out of nowhere someone said, 'Hey man'. And low and behond, it was Patrick, my American friend that I met in Pakistan 3 months ago. Patrick was studying at the American University in Beirut and invited me to stop in if I was in the area. How he found me in the city was nothing short of amazing.

Beirut is amazing. Muslim women walking around with head scarves next to women with extremely revealing blouses and skimpy skirts. Men completely GQ'd out in their 500 Mercedes with nose bandages implying plastic surgery, passing traditional muslim men with sunni hats and prayer beads. It's an amazingly diverse place, it has completely blown me away and dissolved every limitation that existed for me mentally for the Middle East. What's even more amazing, is that this place was completely blown away, bombed until only crumbs remained only 3 years ago!

And as always the food is great!

Diner last night (Patrick and Alicia)